# Cruise 2008/9: Miami 🌴 | Date | Place | City | Collection | Code | | -------------------------- | --------------------- | ------------------ | ------------------------------ | ----------------------- | | Wednesday, 14 [[May 2008]] | [[The Raleigh Hotel]] | [[Miami, FL, USA]] | [[Cruise Collections\|Cruise]] | [[Cruise • Miami\|09C]] | Also referred to as: [[Miami Vice Gun Heels|Miami Vice]] Creative Director: [[Karl Lagerfeld]] | ![[00160m.png]] | ![[00060m.png]] | ![[00520m.png]] | ![[00560m.png]] | | --------------- | --------------- | --------------- | --------------- | | ![[00210m.png]] | ![[00380m.png]] | ![[00490m.png]] | ![[00580m.png]] | | ![[00220m.png]] | ![[00390m.png]] | ![[00720m.png]] | ![[00590m.png]] | # Inspiration "The androgyne attitude," a feathered pastel dress Coco Chanel had once created for Delphine Seyrig in “Last Year at Marienbad," Brian Jones. “It’s all about proportions, cuts, volumes,” Lagerfeld said pre-show. “There is not one line that is taken all through the collection. For cruise, you don’t do that. There are many looks and an attitude.” > [!NOTE] Commentary > I live in Miami, so I really want to love this collection. Unfortunately, it feels off to me; [[Virginie Viard]]'s [[Cruise • Los Angeles|Cruise 2023/24: Los Angeles]] collection actually felt much closer to a true Miami collection to me, with its sunset purples and oranges, palm trees and gold lame. Even Cuba 17C had palm trees. > > Also, you'll note below in the excerpts that everyone keeps name-checking Brian Jones because Karl mentioned him as an inspiration, but come on. Those white suits are 100% [[Elvira Hancock]]. ## The Set From [Vogue](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2009/chanel): After taking to the skies for the flight-themed Resort collection he presented in Los Angeles a year ago, Karl Lagerfeld made a splashy landing with the new Chanel Cruise show. His models literally walked on water on a curvilinear runway built over the famously sinuous pool at the Raleigh Hotel in South Beach, Miami. ![[09C-raleight-hotel.png]] ## Iconic Pieces ### [[Miami Vice Gun Heels]] ![[09c miami vice heels.jpg]] ### [[The Silver Sequin Jacket]] ![[karl-sequin-jacket.png]] | Motifs | | -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- | | [[70s]], [[guns]], [[hearts]], [[rock and roll]], [[hand painting]], [[sequins]] | | Assorted Details | | | | ----------------------------------- | ------------------------------------- | --------------------------- | | Bath towel with painted Miami motif | Sequin jacket button with Miami | Bag with mesh detail | | ![[09-cruise-motif.png]] | ![[09-sequin-button-closeup.png]] | ![[09c-mesh-purse.png]] | | | | | --- ## Excerpts about the collection ##### [[WWD]]: [Chanel’s Beach Ball](https://wwd.com/feature/chanel-s-beach-ball-1021422-1876016/) • 15 [[May 2008]] • [[Marc Karimzadeh ]] "Those expecting Miami Vice pastels or even a touch of Golden Girls were in for a surprise though. Karl Lagerfeld set the mood with an all-black start, from a sleek tuxedo to a slouchy blouse-and-pant combination that was more Paris and New York than some of the world's sunnier locales. ...Indeed, Lagerfeld's cruise woman was sophisticated with a rock chick edge, from disco-metallic blazers to suits textured with camellias, bell bottom pants and pleated hot pants. Lagerfeld cited Brian Jones, the drug-addled Rolling Stone who was found dead at the bottom of his pool in 1969, as an inspiration." ##### [[Vogue]]: [Chanel Resort 2009](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2009/chanel) • 14 [[May 2008]] • [[Laird Borrelli-Persson]] "The 74-look collection mixed rock 'n' roll with seventies swing and high glamour...Models with Brian Jones-inspired hair looked as smart in smokings as they did in seventies-style full-legged light-wash jeans, tie-dyed logo tees, and haute hippie headbands...A series of elaborately beaded dresses with clear or smoky plastic insets were examples of pure urban sophistication, just as the few goddess dresses were exemplars of restraint. The pistol-heeled shoes—paging _Charlie's Angels_—were a different story. Lagerfeld's own wardrobe might have influenced the hard-edged looks (silver sequined blazers and black jeans) that the models rocked near the close of a show that was a spectacular in every way. "This kind of production speaks to the importance of the [Resort] market and signals how commercially viable it is," said Saks' Ron Frasch." Speaking of the spectacle, apparently [the afterparty was good](https://forums.thefashionspot.com/threads/chanel-resort-2009-miami.136561/page-2#post-21559899) according to a forum poster on [[The Fashion Spot]]: "There were some not so good outfits but overall very wearable, very cruise and very Miami...the after party was at the beach of the Raleigh Hotel with fire pits....ceviche...and coconut mojitos....overall VERY WELL DONE!" #### Description from [Chanel News](https://www.chanel.com/lx/moda/news/2008/05/20089-cruise-collection.html) "Miami is a timeless and free place. With the sea and the sun all year long, it can only be relaxing. The perfect place to show a cruise collection,” declared Karl Lagerfeld. For this season, the designer imagined a collection of chic but laid-back looks: [[pastel colors]], a lot of summery white as well as impeccable black, vinyl and tweed jackets, striped swimsuits, silk satin flares, belted jackets in beige toweling, large and voluptuous sweaters, a combination of structured and voluminous shapes and a collection of fun and luxurious jewelry. Over 300 international celebrities were invited to the early evening show. Among those in the front row: actresses [[Diane Kruger]] and [[Anna Mouglalis]], the young [[Zoe Kravitz]] and tennis star [[Anna Kournikova]] – without forgetting [[Anna Wintour]], of course. ##### Notable Models [[Sasha Pivovarova]]